Win

It's election season again in Manila. Everywhere we go, there are banners, motorcades, and rallies for different candidates - from our local councilors all the way up to the president. I don't think these kids really know who this particular candidate is. I think they just find it fun to ride around the trucks and wave at the people. This candidate's name, by the way, is Erwin "Win" Genuino and I think he's running for Mayor of Makati City.

Chanteuse

The foundation in which I work regularly holds music and arts events. The staff members who volunteer at these events, of course, get to attend these events for free. One of the events was the Philippine Jazz Festival, held recently at the Ayala Museum (I must say, we've had some rather eccentric guests at these events, but at least they make the parties a lot more interesting).

Mishka Adams alone made the two hours of standing and ushering the guests completely worth it. Mishka is a half Filipino half British jazz singer and her voice reminds me a bit of Joni Mitchell: lilting, hushed, tender. I wonder what she's feeling here, with her eyes closed. I guess some people just have things they love so much they can't help but close their eyes, and clutch their hands tightly, close to their hearts.

Headquarters

Driving around the other day, I came across the headquarters of the Philippine Army, in Fort Bonifacio, Taguig. I never knew what the Army's insignia meant, and a little research reveals what the yellow, red, white and green colors symbolize: Within the shield is a red triangle with three stars, representing the Philippines' three major islands: Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao. At the center of the triangle is eight-rayed sun, which stands for the eight provinces that revolted against Spanish colonial rule. This emblem is bordered by the color white, which signifies the Army's mission of securing peace. The emblem is also the historic coat-of-arm of the Philippine Revolutionary Army of 1897. You can't see it here, but at the center of the sun is an ancient Filipino script representing the letter "K," which stands for the Katipunan Army raised by Andres Bonifacio, a hero during the fight for Philippine Independence (where the name Fort Bonifacio comes from, incidentally). It all rests on a green patch, symbolic of the country's verdant lands.

You may notice the small plane behind the structure also. It is because the headquarters is near Villamor Air Base, where the Philippine Air Force sits and in which the Terminal III of Manila's domestic and international airport is also located.

Harvest Day

Since the title of this blog is, after all, "Life in Manila.. and elsewhere," I thought I'd focus on the "elsewhere" part once in a while. The shot above was taken somewhere in Batangas, a province three hours South of Manila. Batangas is the home of the second largest sugar producing company in the Philippines , the Central Azucarera Don Pedro. Many of the biggest industrial companies in the Philippines still have Spanish sounding names, which could be because the landed elites today trace their roots all the way to the Spanish colonial era when the landed elites were mostly of Spanish descent. Anyhow, for Manila folks, the province is more known as the nearest beach destination. Manila is pretty land-locked, so a chance to get away from the urban jungle is always welcome. Have a happy weekend folks!

A timeless tribute

Corazon "Cory" Aquino, former President of the Philippines and international icon of democracy, passed away last August 1, 2009. In her honor, Swatch launched a commemorative collection of Cory wristwatches on the eve of what would have been her 77th birthday on January 25. The design of this 24-feet high signature watch is the design in one of the 2 watches that come in each set. The other features a yellow face with steel dials. Emblazoned on the watches are the words "Ipagpapatuloy ko" (which literally means "I shall continue," and presumably refers to the fight for human rights and the work of nation-building that Cory has exemplified). The set also comes with a picture book called "A Woman Dressed in Sunshine," written by Teddy Boy Locsin, who served as her spokesman and speechwriter.

There are only 801 sets of Cory Swatches, and each set costs Php 8, 1000 (roughly $160). The numbers 8 and 1 correspond to the day of her death, August 1. The watches were designed by Don Jaime Zobel de Ayala, chairman emeritus of Ayala Corporation, and whose family supported Cory during the final days of the Marcos dictatorship. "How does one put a heroic life into a watch?" Zobel de Ayala was quoted as saying. Well I suppose he started with Cory's signature color - yellow, and the rest, as they say, was history.

Down in Chinatown

Last part of the Chinatown series

Chinatown is also home to the Binondo Church (also known as the Minor Basilica of San Lorenzo Ruiz). The granite structure was built by the Dominicans in 1596 for their Chinese converts. It was heavily destroyed during World War II, and only its western facade and octagonal bell tower survived. As I said in a previous post, many of the Chinese here in the Philippines practice Christianity side by side with their more traditional Chinese religions. Sometimes you can see them offering incense to the Virgin Mary or sometimes you see some Buddhist altars with a crucifix right in the middle. Sometimes I wonder how they navigate such seemingly polar identities. Anyhow I think they can teach us a lot about religious tolerance and peaceful coexistence, yes?

San Lorenzo Ruiz, by the way, is the first and only Filipino saint. He was born of a Chinese father and a Filipino mother and was executed for refusing to renounce his faith.

So that is it for my Chinatown series. I hope to go back there soon, not just for the dumplings and the dimsum (although I have to say that's a huge part of it) but because there's so much more in the busy, noisy, and utterly vibrant Chinatown just waiting to be explored.

Down in Chinatown

Part 3 of the series


Lining the streets of Binondo is a variety of shops selling practically everything - from fruits, to good luck charms to traditional Chinese medicine. Fine dining restaurants exist side by side with hole-in-the-wall-eateries, all serving fantastic, and sometimes exotic, Chinese cuisine.

Photo courtesy of Jaime Martinez

Everywhere you look, you're bound to see something interesting. The lady above was preparing quail, which is quite a delicacy. Her deft, skilfull handling attracted quite a crowd. As for the man below, I suppose he'd rather be left alone and get his foot massage in peace.



Last of the series tomorrow!

Down in Chinatown

Part 2 of the Chinatown series. Part 1 here.

Chinese-Filipinos (or more populary known as Chinoys) are considered one of the largest ethnic groups in the country, making up about 20% of the entire population. Most of the Chinese are business owners engaged in family business. In fact, the richest man in the Philippines, Henry Sy, who owns the largest mall chain in the country, is Chinese.

Most of the Chinese in the Philippines live in urban areas, especially Metro Manila. In Manila, Chinatown is located in Binondo (Binondo comes from the word "Binundok" or boondocks). It is said that the district was already the center of Chinese commerce even before Spanish colonial times.


The Chinese Filipinos are mostly Christians, which makes them unique from the Chinese residing in other parts of Southeast Asia. Still, most of them practice more traditional Chinese religions like Mahayana Buddhism or ancestor worship (including Confucianism) side by side with Christianity. Part 3 tomorrow!

Dying for some Dong Bei

Tucked away in a relatively secluded spot in Manila's Chinatown is a little, inconspicuous restaurant called Dong Bei Dumplings. Despite its humble facade, Dong Bei offers what is quite possibly the best dumplings in Chinatown. Maybe even anywhere in Manila. It's that good.

The dumplings are made right in front of you. It's no wonder these children can't help but look.

Dong Bei literally means northeast. Dongbei cuisine, apparently, is not considered part of the "eight great traditions" of Chinese cuisine, which includes Cantonese, Sichuanese and Hunanese (A fact I'm still trying to digest since the Dong Bei dumplings that we ordered were fantastic). We ordered the pork dumplings with chives, for that extra kick. I have a feeling I'll be coming back for more.

Suffer the little children

Here's another art installation in Bonifacio Global City. I posted an installation featuring fishermen a while back and apparently, that, along with this one, is part of Bonifacio Art Foundation's public arts program. The foundation provides public arts programs for residents of Bonifacio Global City, a former military property. The art installation featuring fishermen is called "Pasasalamat," (literally, Thanksgiving) and it's made by Ferdie Cacnio from welded brass, as a tribute to our Filipino fishermen.

This one is called "Kasaysayan Bawat Oras" (History Every Hour) by Juan Sajid de Leon. This 16-meter brass and cement sculpture is actually a sundial, and the seven paper-like dolls represent the 7,107 islands of the Philippines.

(On a side note: I'm really glad I started In Manila. I discover things about my city that I don't think I would have if I hadn't started this blog. I didn't even know about the arts program until today! I'll definitely be on the lookout for the rest of the foundation's art installations. There's around 5 more around Bonifacio Global City, I think.)

Into the sunset

If I had one of these, I could definitely go sailing into the sunset. Photo taken along Manila Bay. Have a good Friday folks!

Pedicab

The pedicab is another common mode of transportation here in the Philippines, although it's more common in narrower streets and back alleys. You can find this one (and the Church door behind it) in our Chinatown, in Binondo. Either this pedicab driver here had too many customers that day or he had none. I guess we'll never know.

On a sunny day

.... you can see sights like this. Don't you just love trees? I know I do. Photo taken at the University of the Philippines in Diliman, Quezon City.

Guess where?

A furniture shop? Nope.

The home of an eccentric recluse? Well, not really.

We're at a salon! The Shunji Matsuo Salon, located in Kapitolyo, Pasig City.

Welcome to the wonderfully eclectic world of Shunji Matsuo, the celebrated Japanese hairstylist who has worked with the likes of Michelle Pfeiffer, Uma Thurman and Madonna. Matsuo's mentor was none other than Suga Yusuke, or more popularly known as Jackie O's hairdresser. Matsuo's celebrity clients here in the Philippines include Imee Marcos, daughter of deposed President Ferdinand Marcos and former First Lady Imelda Marcos. In the Philippines, Matsuo's salon is headed by William Wong, who learned Matsuo's tricks in Singapore and Malaysia, where Matsuo's other branches are located.

The salon is a feast for the eyes. Everywhere you look, you're bound to see something fun and quirky. There's a whole glass case full of dolls, a bright red parasol by the waiting area, Japanese kimonos on the walls and so much more. Best of all, they're really good with hair cuts. My hair now is short and spunky, just the way I like it.

On a side note

I wrote something about the Venice Piazza mall the other day. The mall is the newest mall to hit the metro and it really has a Venice theme, including an al fresco dining area where live bands would play.


On a side note, the first time I went there, a shooting for a commercial (or maybe it was for a film) was taking place. I wanted to take pictures of the actor and the actress (Dingdong Dantes and Marian Rivera, two of the country's biggest stars) but they were being mobbed and my little point-and-shoot just couldn't hack it. Oh well.

Fire engine... purple?

I've heard of fire engine red, but fire engine purple? I don't think I have. This is the fire truck of the Binondo Paco Volunteer Fire Search and Rescue Brigade, a group of volunteer Filipino Chinese firefighters stationed in Binondo, where Manila's Chinatown is located.

In Venice

Well, not really THE Venice in Italy, but the Venice Piazza mall, in McKinley Hills, Taguig City.

Flowers not for sale

They're just there to prettify a modest little house. Yes, we can insist on beauty, no matter where we are. Have a good Friday folks.

A little tribute to our fisherfolk

Here's a little tidbit I found out: Fishing is a Php 50billion industry in the Philippines (that's roughly $1 billion) and makes up about 4% of our country's Gross National Product. Wow. If you ask any Filipino, the tastiest seafood comes from the Visayas region, especially in Roxas or Iloilo City (Visayas is an hour or so by plane from Manila). Fish, shrimp, crabs, you name it, they've got it.

Which one would you look at first?

I would notice the billboard with the pretty girl on it first. Or maybe the bright yellow one, but it's not that appealing. The other billboards just can't keep up in this sea of billboards practically blotting out the skies. Photo taken along EDSA, the main highway in Metro Manila.

Half the Sky

Today, March 8, is International Women's Day. In celebration of this day, I decided to feature an organization fighting for women's rights here in the Philippines, the Third World Movement Against Exploitation Against Women. While the Philippines was ranked by the World Economic Forum as among the Top 10 countries in the world for gender equality, plenty of women still suffer from forms of oppression, rape and abuse. In fact, it is estimated that up to 50% of all women trafficked all over the world are Filipinas. Even sadder is that some women become prey to prostitution by their own countrymen, who lure them with promises of legitimate jobs but who instead make them work in brothels or arrange for them to marry foreigners in sham marriages. Also, as the country remains a mostly patriarchal society, rape victims are still viewed as "dirty", as if she courted the abuse she experienced. Because of the social and cultural stigma attached to rape victims, as well as the inefficiency present in some law enforcement agencies in the Philippines, many of the victims prefer to suffer in silence.

TW-MAE-W supports women by providing them with livelihood.

These are some of the bags that the women make.

Since its founding on Human Rights Day on December 10, 1980, TW-MAE-W has helped thousands of women escape the chains of sexual abuse, slavery and exploitation. Through their drop-in centers and homes, they are able to provide the victims a host of services including residential care, counseling and psychosocial therapy, livelihood training, and educational, medical and legal assistance. Many of the women have gone on to lead productive lives in different areas in society.

The wall in the prayer room of one of the residential homes of the foundation. That home shelters around 12 children, one as young as 9. The children are mostly victims of rape and incest.

Women hold up half the sky, as the Chinese saying goes. Happy Women's day to all the beautiful, amazing, empowered women here. And to the men who love us, who treat us with much kindness and respect, cheers to you, as well.

A challenge to all of us

A billboard that stood out among the sea of billboards littering the Manila skyline. It's an ad by the Philippine Long Distance Telephone Company, the largest telecommunications company in the Philippines. Interesting question, yes?

Rock on

Photo taken in Handle Bar, a popular joint for musicians and artists, during an album launch. Manila has a lively music and arts scene. This guy, at least, looked like he was having a lot of fun.

Night escapade

When I go jogging in Fort Bonifacio, Taguig, I always look at the skyline and somehow I feel less tired. Happy Friday everyone!

Garden

I know I've posted the Ayala Triangle Gardens before, but indulge me once again. It's just a treat to have a place where one can find solace in the middle of the busy Makati Central Business District. This shot was taken during Harana and Tea, a mini concert featuring traditional Filipino love songs. (May I just say, we have beautiful, beautiful love Filipino love songs). The concert was open to the public, so some people actually stopped down, sat on the grass and enjoyed the music, all for free. Unfortunately I wasn't able to take pictures of the group who sang during this particular concert but thankfully there will be others like it in the future.

Concentric is the word for the day

The Church of the Holy Sacrifice, in the University of the Philippines, is recognized as a National Historical Landmark by our National Historical Institute and a Cultural Treasure by our National Museum. Known for its concentric structure (a structure having a common center, in this case, the altar, above which hangs the Crucifix), the Church was designed by National Artist Leandro Locsin, who collaborated with 5 other artists for the project. For some time, churchgoers would gather around the altar, kneel down and wait while the priest goes around distributing communion. Now the churchgoers line up along the aisles, like in other standard Churches.

Juan Tamad, part 2

The Devil, played by Vincent de Jesus

Juan Tamad as an advocacy play was unlike other advocacy plays that clobber you with too much information. This one is hip, fun and totally relatable, even to non-first time voters. Interestingly enough, according to one of the play's consultants, the script is dynamic and evolves along with the latest news on the Philippine political landscape. Say someone bows out of the race, that tidbit is incorporated in the play whenever possible. Say someone comes out with a new jingle that's making the rounds of radio and TV, that too is put into context into the play. Even some of the characters in the play are loosely based on several others who joined the election fray several months into the election frenzy. How fantastic is that?

Behind the characters is a guide for first-time voters: What to bring, where to go and when.

They think of everything!

One of the most interesting things about PETA is that after the play, the actors come out for a little question and answer portion, especially if the audience is made up of students. It's not exactly a meet-and-greet type of question and answer, but more about what the students learned from the play and how they can apply the lessons they learned in real life. Hopefully, the lessons they learned from the play will stick with them long after they've stepped out of the theater and back into their real lives.

The play runs until March 7, so Manila-based folks, catch it while you still can!

Juan Tamad

Juan Tamad (Juan the Lazy) is one of the most popular characters in Filipino children's folklore. According to the legends, Juan Tamad was so lazy that instead of picking a guava fruit from the tree, he lay underneath it and waited for gravity to do the work!

That story, and many other variations of it became one of the inspirations for "Si Juan Tamad, ang Dyablo at ang Limang Milyong Boto (Juan the Lazy, The Devil, and the Five Million Votes)," the last offering for the 42nd season of the Philippine Educational Theater Association. It is a musical comedy set in the fictional island of Isla Filiminimon and follows the young Juan and a motley crew of characters as they navigate around the crazy, carnivalesque world of Filimini politics and Filimini election season. The Devil (played superbly by Vincent de Jesus, also the composer, lyricist writer and musical director of the play) discourages Juan from participating in the upcoming elections, as there seems to be no point in trying to change the order of things. "Besides, you have to register to vote, and the registration venue is so far!" the Devil says. "So far! Two blocks away!"

The other characters in the play are the candidates for the elections, all vying for votes through the usual false promises and tawdry gimmickry. There's Sigben Pugot, an all-too-charming politician...

And Mariang Batibat, who looks suspiciously like the wife of a former dictator here. Whoops.

The play is called Juan the Lazy, the Devil and the Five Million Votes because there are 5 million "virgin" or first-time voters in the Philippines (and who make up the target audience of the play). That's a large chunk of voters who can hopefully influence the outcome of our elections for the better.

More on the play tomorrow!