Good luck

I don't know what these are exactly, but I'm guessing they're for good luck. Or prosperity. Either way we don't have one of these in our house. I'm betting a lot of the Chinese households (not to mention businesses) around here do, though.

Down in Chinatown

Last part of the Chinatown series

Chinatown is also home to the Binondo Church (also known as the Minor Basilica of San Lorenzo Ruiz). The granite structure was built by the Dominicans in 1596 for their Chinese converts. It was heavily destroyed during World War II, and only its western facade and octagonal bell tower survived. As I said in a previous post, many of the Chinese here in the Philippines practice Christianity side by side with their more traditional Chinese religions. Sometimes you can see them offering incense to the Virgin Mary or sometimes you see some Buddhist altars with a crucifix right in the middle. Sometimes I wonder how they navigate such seemingly polar identities. Anyhow I think they can teach us a lot about religious tolerance and peaceful coexistence, yes?

San Lorenzo Ruiz, by the way, is the first and only Filipino saint. He was born of a Chinese father and a Filipino mother and was executed for refusing to renounce his faith.

So that is it for my Chinatown series. I hope to go back there soon, not just for the dumplings and the dimsum (although I have to say that's a huge part of it) but because there's so much more in the busy, noisy, and utterly vibrant Chinatown just waiting to be explored.

Down in Chinatown

Part 3 of the series


Lining the streets of Binondo is a variety of shops selling practically everything - from fruits, to good luck charms to traditional Chinese medicine. Fine dining restaurants exist side by side with hole-in-the-wall-eateries, all serving fantastic, and sometimes exotic, Chinese cuisine.

Photo courtesy of Jaime Martinez

Everywhere you look, you're bound to see something interesting. The lady above was preparing quail, which is quite a delicacy. Her deft, skilfull handling attracted quite a crowd. As for the man below, I suppose he'd rather be left alone and get his foot massage in peace.



Last of the series tomorrow!

Down in Chinatown

Part 2 of the Chinatown series. Part 1 here.

Chinese-Filipinos (or more populary known as Chinoys) are considered one of the largest ethnic groups in the country, making up about 20% of the entire population. Most of the Chinese are business owners engaged in family business. In fact, the richest man in the Philippines, Henry Sy, who owns the largest mall chain in the country, is Chinese.

Most of the Chinese in the Philippines live in urban areas, especially Metro Manila. In Manila, Chinatown is located in Binondo (Binondo comes from the word "Binundok" or boondocks). It is said that the district was already the center of Chinese commerce even before Spanish colonial times.


The Chinese Filipinos are mostly Christians, which makes them unique from the Chinese residing in other parts of Southeast Asia. Still, most of them practice more traditional Chinese religions like Mahayana Buddhism or ancestor worship (including Confucianism) side by side with Christianity. Part 3 tomorrow!

Dying for some Dong Bei

Tucked away in a relatively secluded spot in Manila's Chinatown is a little, inconspicuous restaurant called Dong Bei Dumplings. Despite its humble facade, Dong Bei offers what is quite possibly the best dumplings in Chinatown. Maybe even anywhere in Manila. It's that good.

The dumplings are made right in front of you. It's no wonder these children can't help but look.

Dong Bei literally means northeast. Dongbei cuisine, apparently, is not considered part of the "eight great traditions" of Chinese cuisine, which includes Cantonese, Sichuanese and Hunanese (A fact I'm still trying to digest since the Dong Bei dumplings that we ordered were fantastic). We ordered the pork dumplings with chives, for that extra kick. I have a feeling I'll be coming back for more.